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Tuesday 16 September 2014
Kwong Fu Fried 广符炒
幸好。。。笔者还是成功找到了广府炒正式的资料。
原来广府炒所用的粉面种类多样化。用伊面的称作「广府炒伊面」,米粉为底叫成「香底米」,纯河粉叫做「滑蛋河」,至于米粉加上河粉则一律称为「广府炒鸳鸯」。
其炒法同出一辙,分别将伊面过油炸酥、米粉慢火烘脆、河粉热炒爆香,而后再煮锅高汤芡汁淋上便是。
相对于一般直接调味翻炒的「炒」面观念,除「滑蛋河」的河粉有炒过之外,其他广府式炒粉似乎与「炒」没有太大关连,与其冠以「炒」字,不如直称「芡汁浸粉」来得更为贴切;像其他比较高档的生虾炒面、江南炒面、香港炒生面、姜葱炒牛河,其实都是源自这招广府式炒法,只是芡汁配料不同罢了。
一碟称得上水准之作的广府炒鸳鸯,除芡汁调味鲜甜自然,恰到好处之外,最重要的还是处理粉面时火候的掌控。
传统「香底米」是以慢火耐心地将米粉烘脆,费时相当。
现今,一般厨师为了省时省工,干脆以猛火热油把米粉炸成酥脆,吸入过量的油,直像家庭式配入广东粥里的油炸米粉般,淋上芡汁后不久便「发」成泡沫浓稠的糊状,毫无香韧爽脆的口感,甭说齿颊留香,简直教人失望。
至于河粉的处理,首要条件当然是炭香和锅气,有功夫的师傅在热油翻炒间如何把雪白的河粉在加入酱油后,给炒成金黄色微微卷边的模样,带有浓浓炭香,却又丝毫看不到任何焦黑。
广府炒现今也成为了马来西亚美食之一。
也欢迎来尝试 《PJ火炭炒福建面》为你精心炮制的广府炒!
The original Kwong Fu Fried use variety type of noodles. It can be divided to different name based on different noodles.
Yee Mee = Kwong Fu fried Yee Mee
Bee Hoon = Heong Dai Mai
Kuew Teow = Egg Kuew Teow / Wat Tan Hor
Bee Hoon + Kuew Teow = Kwong Fu Fried Ying Yong / Mixed Kwong Fu Fried
The fried method is almost the same.
Among this, only Wat Tan Hor got related to “Fried”, others just be named based on “fried”. Others recipe, eg. Prawn Fried Mee, Kong Nam Fried Mee, Hong Kong Fried Mee, Ginger and Fried Beef Ho Fun, actually same as Kwong Fu Fried method, just the sauce ingredients.
The main points for a good arrangement of Hor Fun / Kuew Teow is the control of charcoal and gas.
Welcome to try the Kwong Fu Fried of PJ Charcoal Fried Hokkien Mee's stall too !
Cantonese Fried / Kwong Fu Fried 广符炒 !
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